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DEWALT DW712 8-1/2-Inch Single-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw | 
| Brand: DEWALT
Category: Home Improvement
List Price: $775.70
Buy New: $375.00
as of 11/24/2009 20:12 CST details
You Save: $400.70 (52%)
New (10) from $375.00
Seller: redeemair
Rating:  39 reviews
Sales Rank: 7976
Media: Tools & Hardware
Number Of Items: 1
Shipping Weight (lbs): 50.3
Dimensions (in): 29.8 x 20.9 x 15.9
MPN: DW712
Model: DW712
UPC: 028877315355
EAN: 0028877315355
ASIN: B00008WFSZ
Availability: Usually ships in 1-2 business days
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| Features:
| • | Powerful 15 Amp motor capable of 5,400 RPM for extended power and durability | | • | Bevel stops at -2, 0, 33.9, 45, and 48 degrees | | • | Stainless steel detent plate with 11 positive stops for repeatable accuracy and work site durability | | • | Weighs 43 pounds; backed by a manufacturer's 3-year warranty | | • | Included with saw: carbide blade and blade wrench |
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| Editorial Reviews:
Amazon.com Product Description
The DeWalt DW712 8-1/2-inch Single Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw comes with a powerful 15 Amp motor capable of 5,400 RPM for extended power and durability. Features include easy-to-use bevel stops at -2, 0, 33.9, 45, and 48 degrees, and an adjustable stainless steel detent plate with 11 positive stops for repeatable accuracy and work site durability. This saw cuts 3-1/2-inch crown nested vertically for increased vertical cutting capacity and cuts 3-1/4-inch base vertically for increased vertical cutting capacity. Also featured is a 50-degree left miter capacity and a 60-degree right capacity for added versatility in miter cutting. Its miter cam lock system provides increased ease of use, and a horizontal main handle provides increased comfort during use. This saw also comes with a tall sliding fence for increased cutting capacity, and its arbor size is 5/8 inches. This saw weighs 43 pounds. Backed by a manufacturer's 3-year warranty, this saw comes with a carbide blade and a blade wrench.
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| Customer Reviews:
Showing reviews 1-5 of 39
 A little disappointed July 4, 2009
Dan Carpenter (Chicago, Illinois)
The saw delivered completely setup (no assembly required). Disappointed the saw off approx. 3/16 inch (straight cut) instruction book was good explaining how to correct. The wrench supplied with saw very poor quality,
end rounded off. The blade supplied good for framing application. Portability and weight OK. I will work with what I have, if had to do again, I would purchase 10 inch slider, has best selection and availability of replacement blades.
 nice March 20, 2009
L. Fitzpatrick (CT)
0 out of 1 found this review helpful
I bought this miter saw for my husband and he absolutely loves it! He uses it all the time! Now if I could only get him to finish a project I'd be all set! Too bad they don't make a saw with auto pilot! lol
 Accurate, but not accurate March 13, 2009
Ray Kim (Fremont, CA)
It's accurate for sliding miter saw, but not dead on. I also don't understand why it does not have symmetrical fence on both sides. The blades are expensive for the size. If you do flooring work, this is your best friend.
Carpenter February 13, 2009
Cd Carpenty (Bethel, CT USA)
1 out of 2 found this review helpful
I've had this saw when it fist come out six years ago, it is light compact saw with big fiches. With remolding homes for a living is saw is the best for me is cut wide board, crown, casings,and siding. It stays squire for a long time about once a year our lace in re square the saw it is a fast saw to re-square. It any git out squire because of traveling in me truck or someone las use it. No problem with this saw.
Best Miter Saw I Have Seen for the Money January 12, 2009
James Bond (Newport Beach, CA)
1 out of 1 found this review helpful
To the last reviewer: Would you state the brand of the 80 tooth blade you used? I have never seen such a blade. That sounds like too many teeth to get on a 8.5 inch blade but who knows.
I have the Freud Industrial 48 tooth with the necessary negative hook and the Dewalt 60 tooth blades. The Freud is a full kerf blade and this saw can handle it just fine. I am currently investigating potential problems with the Dewalt blade. If I bring the blade down in front of the wood and then push it though (like you are supposed to on this type of saw) and then leave the saw head down until the blade comes to a stop (again, like you are supposed to) the Dewalt blade leaves a bad blade mark on the cut. The blade mark is made when the blade coasts down or is electric braked down at the end of the cut. The only way I can alleviate this blade mark is to either 1) shut the motor off just before the end of the stroke (kinda like you should with a Skil saw) or 2) to immediately lift the head up at the end of the cut while the blade is still spinning. Neither of these options is desireable and 2) is not safe.
I am going to switch back to the Freud Industrial blade and see if I have this issue. I have a feeling it is the blade because I don't recall this before. BTW, my saw was slightly off on the miter out of the box and these saws need to be set up exactly perfect because incedibly small errors in miter/fence perpendicularity will show up as large errors when the saw is slid out to make a 12" cut. The only way I was able to align the machine to my standards was through trial and error by using a large square (known to be good) on the kerf of a 12 inch cut. I had to bump the adjustment a fraction of an inch at a time until I got the kerf exactly perpendicular to the fence. A very difficult and time-consuming process. At least it can be done and it should hold this for a long time.
I was unable to have any degree of success with a small square against the blade. The blade is simply not large enough to get an accurate reading (it always looks to be square to the fence at O degrees, even when the kerf says otherwise) and the teeth interfere with the square unless you do the set up with the 30 tooth blade that comes with the saw.
This saw is one amazing machine once dialed in but like all saws it must be dialed in. I love its adjustability. It has a very high quality of contemporary Italian construction (I have no idea why Dewalt makes this one saw in Italy, but get it while you can), all the capacity needed for 99 percent of the jobs out there (who needs to cut 4X4's with a miter saw - you learn to lay things flat - you don't need a huge 12 inch monstrosity with a slider as it is the slider that provides the great capacity) it is light, and it is powerful. A one-of-a-kind Dewalt. I wouldn't use anything else. If you need to chop up huge crown and you want to nest it I would just get a non-slider 12 inch.
Oh, the bag picks up better than 50 percent of the sawdust is my guess. Way better than nothing. Blade changes are a snap - really, really easy with the provided tool.
I use it with the Rigid MSUV stand. The stand is hard to put together for sure (close to impossible given that some of the parts don't really fit) and a little flimsy (not the world's most stable platform but adequate) but other than that it is quite good. It won't win any awards for quality of construction but it is fast to set up, it lets you move the saw around easily and has good capacity although the extensions are the weak link. They are fast out and they work is about the most that can be said in their favor. I question how long this stand will hold up to use but so far so good. I don't see anything better on the market.
If anyone has had similar experiences/issues with the alignment of this saw or the Dewalt blade problem please drop a comment.
Update: The blade mark was caused by operator error: i.e., not understanding that the saw powerhead must be returned home very gently and not banged at all. These portable saws do not have the stability of mass in their favor and the flimsy stands don't help. The problem for me was that when the guard engages the wood it creates some resistance that must be overcome when pushing the powerhead all the way home. Once the resistance is overcome you need to back off with your force or you will bang the powerhead into the end stop. For me, I was probably overdoing it just enough to deflect the powerhead a fraction of an inch, enough to create a blade mark. The solution is to be very careful (gentle is the best way to put it) when bringing the powerhead to the home position. I found it really needs to be eased through the very last part of the cut. Interestingly, if you use the saw as a lefty there were no problems. The saw needed adjustment on both bevel and miter settings. I found the best way to do it was with plastic drafting triangles. Nothing is square out of the box. I don't care whose saw it is.
I measured the runout of the Freud Industrial and arbor combination and it was less than .002 - a remarkable number, essentially perfect. The Freud Diablo 60 tooth and the Dewalt 60 tooth each had unacceptable runout. I believe the thicker blade is the only way to go.
Showing reviews 1-5 of 39
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